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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Installed Burns Moto USB port. Can be used for iPhone, iPod, GPS, etc....

You can see wire routing and used battery mount bracket to hold wiring in place. I just ran it up under the side panels on same route as main wiring harness....so, it just follows same routing




View of plug mounted and waterproof cap closed




Unit with USB plug inserted



Rider view of plug with wire attached (I used pink cable to make easy to see)




It is ALWAYS LIVE, so it will charge phone or other USB port device with the key in the OFF POSITION....but does not drain battery unless something is plugged in, so as long as you don't have something plugged in, you're all good

My phone plugged in (screenshot) and you can see it is charging (see battery in upper right corner)

 

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Very clean install.

If I may offer you a piece of advice! You really should install an inline fuse above the bracket. If that bracket wears through the insulation of your red wire, its gonna get real hot real fast and hopefully just pop. An inline fuse will protect your bike.


Other than that, looks sharp!


 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks, but there is an inline fuse built in, you just can't see it, as it's tucked in the lower left corner of the battery.

You can kind of see it here...

 

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Heya, it does INDEED DRAIN the battery. It draws a few milliamps which in time can drain a battery. It takes 12v down to 5V so there is a loss. Install a hidden switch?
 

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Heya, it does INDEED DRAIN the battery. It draws a few milliamps which in time can drain a battery. It takes 12v down to 5V so there is a loss. Install a hidden switch?
i believe if the circuit isn't closed (if there isn't something plugged in to the USB) it doesn't take anything down...
 

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This type of device will drain the battery over a long time. There is a few milliamps draw even with nothing plugged into it. The circuit that transforms the 12V down to 5V does draw power even when not in use unless you switch it off.

It is the same as your cell phone charger. When plugged into the wall (120VAC), and the cell is not plugged into the cord, there is still energy being consumed however small.

@engicedave - It may be fused and protect the wiring beyond the fuse but as I showed in my photo, the red wire goes directly from your battery under the battery clamp (grounded) which is not fused untill you pass the bracket. It is possible I cannot see the entire wiring, but it sure looks like you are going directly from your battery under your clamp before making it to your fuse. If you are, you still need a fuse before the clamp.
 

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This type of device will drain the battery over a long time. There is a few milliamps draw even with nothing plugged into it. The circuit that transforms the 12V down to 5V does draw power even when not in use unless you switch it off.

It is the same as your cell phone charger. When plugged into the wall (120VAC), and the cell is not plugged into the cord, there is still energy being consumed however small.

@engicedave - It may be fused and protect the wiring beyond the fuse but as I showed in my photo, the red wire goes directly from your battery under the battery clamp (grounded) which is not fused untill you pass the bracket. It is possible I cannot see the entire wiring, but it sure looks like you are going directly from your battery under your clamp before making it to your fuse. If you are, you still need a fuse before the clamp.
interesting.
then this is a definitely good idea FS: 12 Volt Power Distribution Kits [$30 shipped!] - Suzuki SV650 Forum: SV650, SV1000, Gladius Forums
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
This type of device will drain the battery over a long time. There is a few milliamps draw even with nothing plugged into it. The circuit that transforms the 12V down to 5V does draw power even when not in use unless you switch it off.

It is the same as your cell phone charger. When plugged into the wall (120VAC), and the cell is not plugged into the cord, there is still energy being consumed however small.

@engicedave - It may be fused and protect the wiring beyond the fuse but as I showed in my photo, the red wire goes directly from your battery under the battery clamp (grounded) which is not fused untill you pass the bracket. It is possible I cannot see the entire wiring, but it sure looks like you are going directly from your battery under your clamp before making it to your fuse. If you are, you still need a fuse before the clamp.
I see what you're saying now, I think what I'll do, in order to avoid splicing in a another (or new) fuse, is move the existing fuse to the other side of that bracket. I think I may also put a small "pad" of thin foam or rubber between the wire and the metal bracket to avoid any possible chafing.

Thank you for the advice.
 

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You could also install as engicedave did but instead of taking the +12V directly to the battery, find an ignition switched +12V (powered only when key is in the on position, pwered off when key is off).

This will prevent any drain to the battery when parked.

I found a switched +12V behind the headlight and used it for my voltmeter install here.
 

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I see what you're saying now, I think what I'll do, in order to avoid splicing in a another (or new) fuse, is move the existing fuse to the other side of that bracket. I think I may also put a small "pad" of thin foam or rubber between the wire and the metal bracket to avoid any possible chafing.

Thank you for the advice.
Your welcome. Keep the wire from the battery to the fuse as short as practical/possible. Also make sure the short piece of wire from the battery to the fuse is free from rubbing anything and well protected.

Inline fuses are a must for any power wires attached directly to the battery in addition to the OEM connector. A perfect example is the inline fuse that Deltran ships with their battery harness for their Battery Tenders..

 

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Very clean install.

If I may offer you a piece of advice! You really should install an inline fuse above the bracket. If that bracket wears through the insulation of your red wire, its gonna get real hot real fast and hopefully just pop. An inline fuse will protect your bike.


Other than that, looks sharp!



That's correct. Always inspect for wire chafing.
 

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You could also install as engicedave did but instead of taking the +12V directly to the battery, find an ignition switched +12V (powered only when key is in the on position, pwered off when key is off).

This will prevent any drain to the battery when parked.

I found a switched +12V behind the headlight and used it for my voltmeter install here.
I'm going to install a Fuzeblock FZ1 in mine. If I can find the space for it.
 

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nice writeup! looks like a good kit

now what are some good phones mounts :)
 

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