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Installed Burns Moto USB Charging Port

21K views 32 replies 11 participants last post by  mad8vskillz 
#1 ·
Installed Burns Moto USB port. Can be used for iPhone, iPod, GPS, etc....

You can see wire routing and used battery mount bracket to hold wiring in place. I just ran it up under the side panels on same route as main wiring harness....so, it just follows same routing




View of plug mounted and waterproof cap closed




Unit with USB plug inserted



Rider view of plug with wire attached (I used pink cable to make easy to see)




It is ALWAYS LIVE, so it will charge phone or other USB port device with the key in the OFF POSITION....but does not drain battery unless something is plugged in, so as long as you don't have something plugged in, you're all good

My phone plugged in (screenshot) and you can see it is charging (see battery in upper right corner)

 
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#3 ·
#4 ·
Very clean install.

If I may offer you a piece of advice! You really should install an inline fuse above the bracket. If that bracket wears through the insulation of your red wire, its gonna get real hot real fast and hopefully just pop. An inline fuse will protect your bike.


Other than that, looks sharp!


 
#8 ·
i believe if the circuit isn't closed (if there isn't something plugged in to the USB) it doesn't take anything down...
 
#9 ·
#10 ·
This type of device will drain the battery over a long time. There is a few milliamps draw even with nothing plugged into it. The circuit that transforms the 12V down to 5V does draw power even when not in use unless you switch it off.

It is the same as your cell phone charger. When plugged into the wall (120VAC), and the cell is not plugged into the cord, there is still energy being consumed however small.

@engicedave - It may be fused and protect the wiring beyond the fuse but as I showed in my photo, the red wire goes directly from your battery under the battery clamp (grounded) which is not fused untill you pass the bracket. It is possible I cannot see the entire wiring, but it sure looks like you are going directly from your battery under your clamp before making it to your fuse. If you are, you still need a fuse before the clamp.
 
#11 ·
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#22 ·
FYI - It did kill my battery, took about 5 days

I haven't ridden it because I took my motorcycle course and wanted to wait until fully legal (because of course the time they'll pop you is when you're like a day away, right?), so it's been about a week and then went to ride today after getting my endorsement and battery was deader than a doornail. No lights on gauges, nothing.

On trickle charger now. I disconnected it for the time being and will look to put in an inline switch or just use the fuse as a disconnect
 
#24 ·
On trickle charger now. I disconnected it for the time being and will look to put in an inline switch or just use the fuse as a disconnect
see if you can tap the positive from a switched wire (like the headlight wire for example, or the platelight positive)
 
#26 ·
someone had a service manual. in it there is a wiring diagram.
I'd just grab a voltmeter (continuity meter really since you just need to find the one that's not ground, and continuity meter between a ground wire and the frame will give you ground) and see which is ground and which is positive.
 
#27 ·
Use the wire that goes to the License plate light. This will fix the fuse issue(the light wires are already fused) and will shut off with the key. Or use the wire with the line for the front marker lights(blinkers or winkers).

The solid color wire should be blinking positive(check this to confirm).
 
#29 ·
Use the wire that goes to the License plate light.
On another thread, multiple folks have reported only getting ~7.4 volts on the license plate light wire. I suspect it is not connected to the battery but directly fed from the generator/alternator. It only comes on when the motor is spinning and it pulses in brightness to the thump of the engine. I found this out while installing the tail tidy.

I would not recommend this as a switched "hot".
 
#28 ·
Also when ever doing wires all metal is ground so watch your positive wires near anything metal.

THIS DOES NOT WORK ON THE GROM: Also instead of connecting direct to the battery(removed every winter in states that have them) you can connect to the starter relay(large wire battery side not starter side) and it will not be in the way when you remove the battery.(you still need a fuse for this) This does not work on the Grom because it has a plug but most bikes have a terminal like the battery.

I do this for the heated vest my wife wears on her CBR600 F4.
 
#32 ·
on the SV, when they show taping into the wire with the white connector ... any idea what that wire powers on the bike ?

I do like the tail light wire idea, but it baffles me why the voltage would be so low.
I guess that leaves out hooking up my onboard voltmeter to that connection :)
 
#33 ·
that's the plate light bulb positive wire.
they're just feeding a relay though (the power distribution block has much more draw potentially since there are 8 terminals available).

low voltage.... v=ir (current times resistance). If the bulb doesn't have much resistance, or the current is low, the voltage will be?
 
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