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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
We all know new bikes can and usually have certain idiosyncrasies upon break in and/or certain nuts/bolts/screws that have a tendency to loosen up after the first few (or hundred) miles....what have you found during your break in's?

Anything come loose?
Anything to watch for?
and "keep an eye on" recommendations?
 

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Most definitely keep an eye our chain. At approximately 50 miles I experienced my chain skip a link. These little 420 chains will stretch a good bit during break-in. Keep it adjusted to within spec. Sorry, should have posted this before. And we didn't get the mini tool kit. And don't forget to use your rear brake. I have heard that it will come around eventually.
 

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Would be nice to have a spare plug, plug wrench...maybe I'll just throw my TTR 110 kit in there! You need a 10 and a 12 mm wrench for the chain adjusters and a 19mm for the axle nut. Doesn't hurt to have a decent torque wrench adjusted to 44 ft-lbs.
 

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this one should be perfect

[ame=http://www.amazon.com/Cruztools-Cruz-Speedkit-Metric-SKJAS/dp/B008OXJIGW/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_nC?ie=UTF8&colid=1KSRPPV86U9NN&coliid=I2VF7JM7XEUGN6]Cruztools Cruz Speedkit Metric SKJAS : Amazon.com : Automotive[/ame]
 

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agreed. keep an eye out for the chain/ loose bolts.
 

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No problems at all. I lubed the chain and changed the oil yesterday at 525 miles. Oil looked nearly new. The chain needed a little lube. I checked the tension and it was within spec. But at the limit. Tightened anyway and a 1/4 turn on each adjuster was too much.

One thing to keep in mind. If you shift out of N(eutral) with the kick stand down it will kill the engine. It's easy to miss the stand as it's small and out of the way. It may 'get' you, making you think there's a problem. Sometimes the stand will be up but will not trigger the switch. You'll experience the same problem. Put the stand back down and back up with intent. This should trigger the switch. It's not a common problem but happens from time to time with all motorcycles with this safety feature. It's fairly easy to bypass the switch if you so choose. Too much effort for me with no benefit I can think of as of yet.

The rear brake takes a bit of break in to get it to 'bite' a bit better. I just used the rear brake excessively in the beginning to accelerate wear/break in. Works great now.
 

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Crap. Really ? Mine is own the way too. Too bad I don't have a Grom right now anyway. Maybe it will fit in my VFR750, and I can use that tool kit on the Grom when I get it.


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