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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello everyone. I've worked at a Honda dealer for the past 6 years. Thought I could come here to bask in the awesomeness of the Grom as well as provide some insight into the dealer side of things. Been a tech my whole career so I've ridden untold amount of bikes, not just Hondas.

I dont currently have a Grom, as the deal i'm working with the sales guys requires a down payment, and the last two we've got in have been sold before I scramble the cash together. But a red ones on the way and it should be in the next two weeks. Gonna through the cash at em next Friday so it can't be sold when it does get here. Really wanted a black one but as this point I really can't wait to get one.

Nice to meet everyone, hope I can be of some assistance to anybody with questions about the dealership process or mechanical questions.
 

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Welcome to the forum! I'm sure your insight will be invaluable.

Any idea why we're being charged so much for you guys to uncrate the Grom and put gas in it?
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks guys.

As far as crating fees, I don't think it's a standard Honda fee. Pretty sure it's an amount decided by the dealership itself. I work mainly service, but dabble in sales and parts so i'm not sure how it works. If you've seen any in the crates, Groms require nothing more than mirror installation and servicing (fuel,oil,battery,etc..), but some bikes require extensive assembly. The new Pioneers are according to Honda a 3.5 hour job, but I can get one from truck to floor in about 1.5 hours. So it's kinda a sham really, gotta cover the set-up guys pay and time loss from him not doing tech work. Plus if he's getting flat rate pay, they probably use it to pay him his flat rate pay for the job. But it could just be a dealer trying to make some profit on top of the bike as well.

The only reason I've not got the last two is the $800 down payment I have to get before the deal goes through. The atv i'm trading is still on payments so it's covering the difference and some taxes. Once I get one, which will be kinda late for riding but oh well, my money should increase a bit. Without that damm truck sucking 50 bucks a week in fuel, i'll have cash galore. But when the snow starts falling that'll return. But I've been waiting for a Grom since we got the Honda update on them. Couple guys at the dealership think I'm crazy but I've got an 1982 GL1100 bobber for highway cruising. But right now for me it's about fuel consumption and nothing else, plus I don't ride the atv anymore, everyone got rid of their stuff. ( Ain't that how it always is!)
 

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Welcome Hondatech!

Many Grom owners are doing their first oil change early. I plan to do my first change at the recommended 600 miles using a quart Pro Honda GN4 10-30 oil. Are there any advantages in changing early...or is changing at 600 miles just as good to do? Just curious as I've read posts about getting the metal shavings out, so as not to get inside the engine components.

I'm still on my first tank at 99 miles on the odometer, with 2-3 bars left still...and plan to use Shell regular 87 gasoline to fill up. I don't run the rpm's to redline yet...but I do run the gears at a medium high rpm, changing consistently until I reach 4th...and then downshift to slow down. I'm waiting until the recommended 300 mile break in period before I start riding it hard.

What are your opinions on these topics...and what do you plan to do with your Grom when you get it?

Thanks...and yeah.. I have a fast Red Grom!
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I'm normally a stickler for following Honda's recommended maintenance schedule, but the Grom's seems a stretch to me. Every 2500 for an oil change, not gonna happen here, especially with no real oil filter and it only being about 5 bucks to change?

I plan on changing mine after the first 100, then every 600. Similar schedule to their atv's and offroad bikes. Seeing as how the Grom engine is most likely based on the new CRF110 design, this frequency is most likely a better solution. But if you did follow Honda's plan and something screwed up, I guess they'd have to warranty it. But i'm not taking any chances.

I will also be using GN4 10W-30, it's what they recommend and I get a discount so, unless I want some dollar store oil, i'm not gonna find any cheaper.

As far as break in, ride it like you plan to ride it it's whole life. Puttin around like a grandma, will only lead to problems when you give it hell later on. I don't know how many times someone has bought a "baby'd" atv or bike only to beat it for a couple of days and it comes all apart. If the components are use to being barely taken to their limits, then banging them off the limiter will only lead to bad things.

By the way most dealerships have that one guy who rides all the news stuff and gives it 100 kinds of hell. So you shouldn't be to supprised to know your Grom has probably been to the limit and back again at least once.
 

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I'll second that every engine I have built or bought gets run through the rpm range during break in it helps seat everything and finds problems before they are catastrophic. Just don't wring on it wot for a half hour on the way home from the dealer you will be fine. Hey Hondatech quick question if its even in the shop manual what is the resistance range across the oil temp sensor. Kinda wondering if I can piggyback an automotive or any other oil/water temp gauge or maybe a dummy light to keep an eye on things.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Pointblank- Honda uses the standard water temperature method and specifies 2.5-2.8 K ohms at 68 F and .21-.22 K ohms at 212 F. Hope that helps you figure out your temp sensor idea.

Clapping- I plan on an exhaust because it's too quite for me, but i'm gonna hold out till my distributor's list them in our price books. That way I can talk to my Parts Unlimited manager and get the pipe for cheap. Plus, I know as soon as I buy one someone else will come out with a pipe I like more. Yoshimura is always a good pipe, but kinda waiting to see some options. Won't be buying any model Big Gun or HMF, cheap pipes that wear out to quick. Also plan on undertail kit and some spools for the rear. Tires as soon as they need em from what I hear as well. The cursory reflector removal and sticker removal of course.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
P.S- I don't currently have a manual of my own (I will though) but I do have the Shops copy at the house, perusing it. So any tech questions I can answer, let me have em.
 

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Suggestion, perhaps you could start an "Ask the Tech" thread, in the appropriate sub-forum. I imagine you're about to be a lot of folks new best friend! :D
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Be cool to get one sticky'd I guess. Get a mod or admin on it. Only been around for 6 years, so I don't claim to know all, but I've been very intent on learning everything I can. Slowly working my way to co-running the shop with a bud and service writer. See if we can't get one going, which one should it be in

P.S- I am very pro-Honda so don't pay no attention if I crap on other brands, just my preference and experiences.
RIDE RED!
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Oh and just a heads-up I chose this forum over the other one because it seems to have more involved member. Not just a bunch of how fast can I get this thing go at the sacrifice of reliability group.
 

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Oh and just a heads-up I chose this forum over the other one because it seems to have more involved member. Not just a bunch of how fast can I get this thing go at the sacrifice of reliability group.
Lol... I also like it here as well, but a member on both for sure.


Sent from Motorcycle.com Free App
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Maysville, Kentucky

Proud employee of the only Level 5 Honda Powerhouse Dealer in KY.
Heritage Honda (Formally Honda of Flemingsburg)
Been in business for 50 yrs in 2013.

If your ever in KY or southern Ohio visit our other dealerships:
Honda of Fairfeild (Fairfeild, OH)
High Energy Kawasaki (Flemingsburg, KY)
Kentucky Motorsports and Outdoors (Richmond, KY/ Formally Honda of Richmond)
Caverun Motorsports (Morehead, KY)
 
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