[Dodgerider26]

I know some of you don't have a shop manual and even still, others prefer to see it done before attempting yourself. Fortunately, this is one VERY easy procedure. Yes, it takes a bit more time, but I really enjoy the cost savings in not having a spin on oil filter. For example, my Concours14 takes about $60 in parts cost for an oil change. The Grom by comparison (even replacing the gaskets) should never come in more than $20 or $25 and that's assuming you are paying the highest prices for the best oil possible.

[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=m4xIrXh10rg]2014 Honda Grom Oil Service (Filter/Spinner Cleaning) - YouTube[/ame]

 

[floppyzebra]

Nice! Love the easy how to videos for your average joe that wants a demo.


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[Stray Dog]

Excellent video.
Nice easy step by step instructions.



Dog

 

[chye]

thanks for posting. DIYs are so important to the usefulness of a forum.

keep em coming!

 

[CiscoSanJose]

great video on how to do a oil change and cleaning of the oil screen and spinner unit, nice going to the person that made the video.

 

[hrcnick11]

So how dirty was the spinner? How many miles on the bike?

 

[how2]

How did you clean the oil screen? Did you just wipe it down or used compressed air?

 

[GromGuy]

some people never replace the crush washer, it's something I always make sure to replace, especially since they're so cheap....you might as well!

 

[Dodgerider26]

So how dirty was the spinner? How many miles on the bike?

The spinner had a layer of slimy grey stuff on it that was maybe... 1/128th in thick. It was a lot like graphite shavings, really. If you took all of the sediment and put it in a pile I bet it would be less than 1/16tsp. It was really just a tiny amount. This was done just before I hit 1,200mi.

How did you clean the oil screen? Did you just wipe it down or used compressed air?

I cleaned the oil screen by spraying it with a no contact cleaner. It's like brake parts cleaner but it's safe to use on electrical components and doesn't eat up rubber. You could also probably just wipe it clean with the shop rag. Total deposits on mine were minimal. The metal shavings in it were very typical for the early break in period on the transmission of a bike.

The shavings/sediment in the oil spinner were very consistent for ring and bearing break in. It seems the screen is there just to catch all of the big stuff while the spinner does a good job collecting all of the really fine dust-like particles.

 

[Grommer2]

I picked up the 2 gaskets at the Honda Dealer today. At first the parts guy tried to talk me out of it saying if I was careful, I should just re-use the gaskets. Actually that is what I probably will do, but I want to have them on hand just in case. Then I realized perhaps why he was saying to re-use them. It took him a half hour to find the parts. Anyway, here they are: R crankcase gasket P/N 11394-KYZ-900 and the gasket for the centrifugal oil filter aka spinner is P/N 15439-K26-901. Total cost of both including tax was $10.57.

 

[Dodgerider26]

I picked up the 2 gaskets at the Honda Dealer today. At first the parts guy tried to talk me out of it saying if I was careful, I should just re-use the gaskets. Actually that is what I probably will do, but I want to have them on hand just in case. Then I realized perhaps why he was saying to re-use them. It took him a half hour to find the parts. Anyway, here they are: R crankcase gasket P/N 11394-KYZ-900 and the gasket for the centrifugal oil filter aka spinner is P/N 15439-K26-901. Total cost of both including tax was $10.57.

I won't produce a video for people and tell them to reuse a gasket because I want everyone to see the instruction explaining the right way to do it which is replacing the gaskets. That being said, I reused both gaskets on mine this time. On my personal bikes I usually will reuse this type of gasket once or twice before replacing. On friends/customer bikes I will always replace the gaskets. It's just a difference in what I'm willing to live with and fix if it goes bad versus leaving someone else in a situation with broken/leaking stuff.

When I make instructional videos I try to focus on staying as accurate and "correct" as possible. Many people will watch that video and decide not to buy new gaskets. Some people though will watch it who have no business making that decision on their own since the Grom will be their first bike and they won't have the experience to know when to replace or reuse. I like to make that decision for them so that those people can learn to do maintenance the right way now and later on down the road learn to be lazy like the rest of us. ;-)

 

[dan0]

Do you have the part number for the crush washer? Bikebandit doesn't have listings for the Grom yet. I'm sure it's something that crosses with a ton of other Honda models just don't know which to get.

 

[Dodgerider26]

Do you have the part number for the crush washer? Bikebandit doesn't have listings for the Grom yet. I'm sure it's something that crosses with a ton of other Honda models just don't know which to get.

90407-259-000 is the Honda part number but you can use any 12.5x20mm crush washer.

 

[dan0]

Awesome, thanks. Ordering up the two gaskets and crush washer so I can do my first service.

 

[Grommer2]

I was looking over the R cover today and I notice a couple of the bolts holding the cover on...one in particular, the one on the far left seems difficult to get to. How did you get to that bolt?

 

[Dodgerider26]

I was looking over the R cover today and I notice a couple of the bolts holding the cover on...one in particular, the one on the far left seems difficult to get to. How did you get to that bolt?

Which cover? The Right hand cover over the crankcase? As in... the one that needs to be removed to do this service? It's simple. You can either remove the rear brake assembly on the rearset and easily access the far left/bottom bolt, or you can do what I do and just use an extension for your ratchet and access the bolt that way.

 

[Grommer2]

OK thanks. I'll try it next weekend.

 

[Grommer2]

OK, I can use an 8mm spanner with a slight offset and slip it underneath the brake spring to get to the rear-most R. cranckcase bolt. Otherwise, I would have to take other stuff off cause my extension does not have nearly enough room cause that brake spring is directly in front of the bolt on my bike. Great video by the way. Even though I have the service manual, your video goes into much more detail.

 

[HondaTech]

Not sure where you got your crush washer number for. The ones we sell are under part # 94109-12000. And the crush washer is 12mm, not 20mm the most common one for Honda. Some use a 14mm- Goldwing, shadow, etc.

 

[Dodgerider26]

Not sure where you got your crush washer number for. The ones we sell are under part # 94109-12000. And the crush washer is 12mm, not 20mm the most common one for Honda. Some use a 14mm- Goldwing, shadow, etc.

Immeasurable difference... I've updated my prior post though to add clarity. The part 90407-259-000 is a 12.5x20mm crush washer. I mistakenly only posted the OD before but it's updated now to include ID as well. Your part number is referenced on other bikes, but it's a universal part just like the one I posted. I'm sure there's a difference to Honda between the two but both work. The fiche for the Grom125 lists 90407-259-000 as far as I've seen. Any 12.5X20 crush washer should work though. Thanks for catching my posting mishap above!