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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Anybody have any good tips on plasti dipping a bike? For those that don't know what plasti dip is, it's basically paint that turns into rubber, so you can paint your car/bike/phone whatever you want and when you're sick of the colour, just peel it off (and it lasts for quite some time too).
 

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I would assume the same applies to a bike as to a car, clean it well and apply multiple coats. I'd also like to note that you better not apply it to you brakes. ;)
 

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Apply multiple coats! When it's too thin it's a pain to remove. Although paint thinner helps! Also, Think about how hard it might be to remove of a certain area before applying. I applied it to the grill on my truck, and OMG took forever to remove it.
 

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i'm planning on plasti-dipping a bike as well- i've plasti-dipped a car and witchcraftz is right, you need a LOT of paint. we went through more than 2 cases of plasti-dip cans.

just mask off rubbery parts on the bike and similar to regular spray paint, do even coats but not too heavy or it'll drip. you have to do several several coats but be patient
 

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plasti-dipping a car took about a day, from 9am to 5pm with constant breaks and including masking. it took a while just due to surface area. plasti-dipping a bike is what, fenders, front, tank, tail? i'm guessing 3-5 hours?
 

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Anybody have any good tips on plasti dipping a bike? For those that don't know what plasti dip is, it's basically paint that turns into rubber, so you can paint your car/bike/phone whatever you want and when you're sick of the colour, just peel it off (and it lasts for quite some time too).
Hello, I'm new on this forum. I'm from hawaii and the grom hasn't even arrived here yet, gonna pick up one first thing when it arrives. but more on the topic. I work at the Audi dealership and we distribute plastidip( so we mess around with it A LOT). so tips...

1. anything you are going to spray make sure it is aready mounted. we have issues with the plastidip peeling during installation. unless u absolutely have to.

2. simple green is good enough to clean the surface before applying plastidip

3. plastidip is really sensitive to chemicals. we use simple green to clean the wheels but it must be diluted with water. any nicks or scraps on plastidip will pretty cause it to peel, but its so easy to apply a coat anyways....

4. try to get the plastidip to wrap around the panel at the edges a little bit, the peeling points are at the end..

5. generous coats.....the consistency is definetly different from typical spray paint, practice practice practice

6. remove plastidip from areas you don't want it...wooden skewers, tooth picks, or plastic emblem removal tools to start the peeling.....overspray, a damp microfiber cloth will take it all away.

we use plasti dip not only cause we can change the colors easily, but it can also provide protection from the elements and hold value of the vehicle...we also service exotic cars and collectibles so its very important that the original paint is not tampered with.
 

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i've used plasti-dip on my bumper and rims. as kaph3n said, generous coats is the key!! otherwise its hard to remove and just doesn't quite look right, imo.

otherwise, plasti-dip is an amazing invention!
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Ya, as a test I plasti-dipped my shadow (just the tank portion) and after letting it cure for a few days, where my legs rubbed against the tank, the plastidip rubbed off completely, and I did 5 coats as recommended.
 

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I love the color of my bikes, but If it fades Plasti-dip here I come. I have some buddies that use it on their dual sports and it is amazing how well it holds up to beatings. It is also easy to repair. Just remember to apply it thick enough to get it off easy.
 

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Hello, I'm new on this forum. I'm from hawaii and the grom hasn't even arrived here yet, gonna pick up one first thing when it arrives. but more on the topic. I work at the Audi dealership and we distribute plastidip( so we mess around with it A LOT). so tips...

1. anything you are going to spray make sure it is aready mounted. we have issues with the plastidip peeling during installation. unless u absolutely have to.

2. simple green is good enough to clean the surface before applying plastidip

3. plastidip is really sensitive to chemicals. we use simple green to clean the wheels but it must be diluted with water. any nicks or scraps on plastidip will pretty cause it to peel, but its so easy to apply a coat anyways....

4. try to get the plastidip to wrap around the panel at the edges a little bit, the peeling points are at the end..

5. generous coats.....the consistency is definetly different from typical spray paint, practice practice practice

6. remove plastidip from areas you don't want it...wooden skewers, tooth picks, or plastic emblem removal tools to start the peeling.....overspray, a damp microfiber cloth will take it all away.

we use plasti dip not only cause we can change the colors easily, but it can also provide protection from the elements and hold value of the vehicle...we also service exotic cars and collectibles so its very important that the original paint is not tampered with.
Great tips, Kaph3n! You give me confidence I can do it right the first time!
 

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I just started playing around with plasti dip last week.

I sprayed my old helmet with the matte black, it had lots of nicks and chips in the paint and I just wanted to spruce it up and have it around for a spare just in case.

I taped off all the vents, sprayed 5 coats of plasti dip, then immediately after the last coat I peeled off my frog tape. When the tape came off it lifted the edges of the plasti dip and I had to peel it from the entire helmet.

At this point I can see where someone might give up, but I'll be honest... the stuff *looks* good. This time I just closed the vents, taped over the visor and resprayed.

Looked great, it applies thin enough that my vents were still operational even though I sprayed over them. It's a modular helmet and even the lifting action of the face was unimpeded.

I left it on the counter over night, the next day my wife took it to the garage and put it in a cardboard box. Where the box rubbed the helmet the plasti dip came off.

I don't know if I'm doing something wrong, maybe I need thicker coats or I need to use that "pre-spray" they sell on their site or something. I will say the texture and look is really nice though.

There is one caveat I noticed on my helmet. Plasti dip is very much a "building up" sort of spray and not a "flowing in" sort... ANY imperfections will remain, they will not level out like they might with something more liquid. Any scratches, chips in the paint, etc. will all still be visible as indentations in the plasti dip. If you are looking for a professional quality finish, you will need to put the time in on the bare surface before plasti dipping it.

Also they have a repair kit for sale on the site, highly recommend it if you are going to do something large. Plasti dip is elastic, when it breaks it pulls back and rolls, it's not something you will be able to fix just by respraying it (see last paragraph).
 

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make sure you spray the plasti dip from a distance greater than arms length if you was a good consistency of stubble. spraying too close will give a muddy look.
 

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Plastidip is a rubber coating and is made to be easily removed.There's good colors,but it doesn't take much to ruin a plasti job.
 
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