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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I couldn't seem to find the "official oil thread" that needs to be discussed to death on every form so here it is. Please give every thought you've ever had on oil. Continue myths and tell everyone else their bike will explode and they will die in a firey crash if they don't use the same brand oil you do.

Now to sit back and enjoy the chaos of an oil thread
 

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:D Dinosaur oil!

But just to be safe i'll stick to the Honda stuff. and for a treat ever once in a while I'll put some Motul or AMSoil.
 

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I owned 7 motorcycles, I tried a lot of stuff. Right now I use the Shell Rotella T6 Full Synthetic motor oil, much cheaper than the "pixie dust" moto specific oils and still JASO-MA rated (good for motorcycles, look it up).
That said I used many different brands of not bike specific motor oils and never had any issues with any of my bikes.
The most important thing is, when you buy, check on the back and make sure that it doesn't have an ENERGY CONSERVING mark on the label!
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Gee this oil thread has been up for 12 hours and only 5 replies.
 

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Gee this oil thread has been up for 12 hours and only 5 replies.
what's wrong with that?

just use whatever oil you prefer. match the rating to the manual unless you choose otherwise. more importantly change it often ;)
 

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Probably be a wet clutch so just avoid any car oils as many newer car oils have "energy conserving" additives which could make your clutch slip. Shoot for any oil with the JASO-MA or MA2 rating. If getting motorcycle specific oil is out of the way for you and you want to go with a synthetic, Rotella T6 works well, fairly cheap and has had the JASO MA for a year or so now. They also sell Mobil 1 motorcycle specific oil at Autozone. Personally, I plan on using Honda HP4S 10-30 as soon as the break in period is done.
 

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Same thing I use in my other bikes for many years, Rotella Synthetic. Cheap and works great.

 

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I have Mobil One synth in a couple of my bikes, and Castrol 10-30 in the rest of them. Not really seeing much difference.
 

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Ugh. I hate oil threads. As long as you use an oil without the friction modifiers then your bike will probably be just fine. If you do use a car oil WITH friction modifiers it won't ruin your engine but it will burn up your clutch. No, you don't need to run a full synthetic race oil on your bike. What's important is using decent oil designed for motorcycles and changing it at, or just before, Honda says so. My last toy bike was a KTM supermoto. I rode it semi-hard so I also changed the oil more frequently and I only put in the best full synthetic oil. I was paying roughly $22 a quart for oil on that. The Grom? I'll be running a full synthetic Mobil 1 or Castrol. Heck, I might even decide to use Rotella.

In any case though just remember that heat and friction break oil down. The Grom is air cooled which means in traffic it will get warmer than a water cooled bike. Because of this it's actually VERY important you change your oil at the recommended interval or, if like me you plan to do a lot of city riding in traffic, then you need to change your oil sooner than recommended.
 

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I have Mobil One synth in a couple of my bikes, and Castrol 10-30 in the rest of them. Not really seeing much difference.
Castrol in my old SV650 allowed for smooth shifting for the first 2,000 miles. Mobil 1 only shifted smooth for 1,800 miles. There is clearly something different in the two oils, but they are both quality oils. I can't imagine either one of them not offering enough protection, but I did find it interesting that my bike preferred the Castrol.
 

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I just use the cheapest motorcycle oil I can find and change it frequently. Helps keep the junk out of your engine. Change the filter every other oil change.
 
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