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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm looking for some advice as for tuning with Yuminashi's software and stand alone ecm. Have made some slight changes, idles better but stills has some flat spots. Here is my setup:
164cc Ultimate Set
Yoshimura RS9
14t front 30t Rear
Yuminashi 4th Gear
Removed air box snorkel

Anybody seen where to get some different maps?

Thanks for any help!!
 

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I also have the same setup and as hoping for some advice. Just wondering how much you adjusted your injection points by to get it to idle and if youve adjusted your enrichment settings? The only map ive seen is on inveniumperformance but I can downlowd it.
 

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Here is a copy of the inveniumperformance map that is on the Superbikes unlimited page.


Could one of you please send me screen shots of the stock Yuminashi tables. I need the timing and both fuel injection tables. Or even send me or post the stock map as a file, Thanks
 

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Hi Hedrick120,

I will write a word down about setting the idle right and show you the new base map we have made on the Dyno so that you can start from there.

The base map has been made with the stock throttle body and air filter box, but with the restriction removed inside the air filter box.

Our recommendation to get your idle right is to go to the (TRIM) SETUP tab, and to take a look how much volts (TPS) you have at this moment at idle.

I can recommend you to unlock the nut at your throttle body, and to adjust the screw which is pushing at the lever from your butterfly valve until you see 0.5 volts on your screen, now(v.) at the (TRIM) SETUP tab.



Once you're done with that, go to the IGN degree (Tps) values, and change first the throttle position percentage at the left hand side, and the RPM range on top (both beams in purple color) and change your values to the once you see on the screen print here.



Do the same with the INJ-VE (Map) and the INJ-VE (Tps) map which you can see below.

Make sure that you have entered 29 at the 1 TPS area (1% line, left hand side corner) in the IGN degree (Tps) map for the first 3 values at the 1% tps line, then go to the INJ VE (Map) and enter 7.5 at the same first 3 values, and 7.5 at the first 3 values in the INJ VE (Tps) field.

If you did all of that, then you can start to adjust your idle with your air adjust screw (black plastic screw), if you turn right, then you allow less air to enter in the engine, which makes your AFR ratio richer and will lower RPM's.
If you screw to the left, your RPM's will rise again and your air fuel ratio will become leaner.

If you turn to much to the left to have more air for a certain fuel amount, then you're overdoing it, you can adjust then the value of the fuel amount at your INJ ADJ (Tps) map field to get the same result, where you again then can turn to the left or the right to allow more or less air to enter in the engine to fine tune it...

Try to get 14.7 AFR at idle on your wideband O2 sensor.
I know the value at idle will be jumping up and down between 14 and 15 AFR, but that's ok.

!!!!Don't forget to right click at the AFR meter on your screen and to select "wide band", otherwise you get values which make no sense at all, and don't forget to select with your mouse the mode 1 or 2!!

If you have the jumper installed, then you are working in mode 2.

Like this you should be fine to get your idle right...

Concerning the entire new base map, you need to enter all the values from the IGN degree (TPS) map above.
We have made this very simple with this map to enter and to have good results...

These are the values for the INJ VE (Map):



And these are the values for the INJ VE (Tps) map:



Very important to know is to leave the IGN degree (TPS) and INJ VE (Map) as you see them on these screen prints, don't make changes on these!...

If you want to make changes on your AFR ratio, then do them in the INJ VE (Tps) map where the base settings are like you can see them here:



You can change the settings from the enrichment correction based on the settings as you can see them over here:



Like this you should be able to set your idle right Hedrick, and to have a good base map for your tune...

I hope this poast can be useful to you and other forum members who need a help with this...

Looking forward to read how well or where you needed to adjust this base map Hedrick...

(The information from the settings and downloads can be found at this page)
 

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How much adjustability is allowed for setting the ignition timing with your stand alone ecu? I have a carbureted Grom with a 4 valve engine and I am looking for something to adjust the timing to my specifications along with setting a higher rev limiter. Thank you in advance.
 

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How much adjustability is allowed for setting the ignition timing with your stand alone ecu? I have a carbureted Grom with a 4 valve engine and I am looking for something to adjust the timing to my specifications along with setting a higher rev limiter. Thank you in advance.
Well, concerning the ignition timing is it very simple, you fill in the ignition degrees you want, and the the RPM's you want, and that's about it...

You can decide like this where you want to have your RPM limit...
You can make 2 maps, and with a off run switch you can select map 1 or map 2 while you are driving...

I would like to recommend the degrees we are showing in our map because these ignition degrees are calculated based on the stroke an the connecting rod length...
 

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Hi, regarding the SX290 8.2 high-lift cam shaft, some people say the "dowel pin" dimension at the end of the cam must be 2.7 mm but mine is 4.3 mm.
It could make something crack if the cam is installed.
Is it possible to get a new cam with the correct dimension from Yuminashi?
I have not installed my 164 Ultimate set yet so nothing is damaged yet....
 

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Hi, regarding the SX290 8.2 high-lift cam shaft, some people say the "dowel pin" dimension at the end of the cam must be 2.7 mm but mine is 4.3 mm.
It could make something crack if the cam is installed.
Is it possible to get a new cam with the correct dimension from Yuminashi?
I have not installed my 164 Ultimate set yet so nothing is damaged yet....
If you have an issue with a product, then we recommend you to send an email to [email protected] so that we can take a look to the issue and help you from there.
 

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Hi, regarding the SX290 8.2 high-lift cam shaft, some people say the "dowel pin" dimension at the end of the cam must be 2.7 mm but mine is 4.3 mm.
It could make something crack if the cam is installed.
Is it possible to get a new cam with the correct dimension from Yuminashi?
I have not installed my 164 Ultimate set yet so nothing is damaged yet....
.

Definitely, don't use that came.
The Cam bolt won't secure the sprocket properly, and it will most likely spin.


If your cam Sprocket spins and your cam does not............. well you know.


:eek:
.
 

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Definitely, don't use that came.
The Cam bolt won't secure the sprocket properly, and it will most likely spin.


If your cam Sprocket spins and your cam does not............. well you know.


:eek:
.
Hard Racing is correct. My cam from Yuminashi 164 kit had the same issue. I assumed that dimension would be correct but when I tried to torque the bolt that holds the timing gear to the camshaft it broke off the little tab on the timing gear that indexes it to the cam. This is because the longer pin does not allow the bolt to clamp down on the sprocket. The bolt just bottomed out on the pin allowing the cam gear to spin and break off the indexing tab on the cam gear. It does not take much torque to break the tab on the cam gear.

I do not have the capability to machine the pin down to the correct dimension so I used a shim/washer that has an inside diameter that is just larger than the pin and 3mm thick to take up the gap that is created from the pin being too long. This allows the bolt to properly clamp down on the cam gear. This fix has worked for over 1,500 miles now.
 

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Awirut / Finbro always gives great customer service.

.
 
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Yuminashi....my bike runs horrible with your maps...won't start without 1/4 throttle, won't idle, won't run without dying, it coughs and sputters and runs very rich.....your stock programming that came with ecu was much better. I have your 164cc ultimate big bore kit, full akropovic exhaust, chimera cold air intake.
 

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Definitely, don't use that came.
The Cam bolt won't secure the sprocket properly, and it will most likely spin.


If your cam Sprocket spins and your cam does not............. well you know.


:eek:
.
Well, it's correct that we had a few camshafts where the dowel pin was slightly longer then the thickness of the sprocket, but we don't have this issue anymore at present..
If the dowel pin is to long, then you always can grind it down a millimeter, and there's nothing wrong on that cam then.
 

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Yuminashi....my bike runs horrible with your maps...won't start without 1/4 throttle, won't idle, won't run without dying, it coughs and sputters and runs very rich.....your stock programming that came with ecu was much better. I have your 164cc ultimate big bore kit, full akropovic exhaust, chimera cold air intake.
Dear Koho,

Thank you for sharing your issue, and even it's always better to send an email to [email protected] or [email protected] for a personal approach, I will try to answer on your public question.

I would like to start with providing a link to the page of our website where we share all the details about this kit and the tune before you buy the kit: YUMINASHI 160 ULTIMATE SET

If you buy a standalone ECU unit, then you do this with the idea to adjust and to make a perfect air fuel ratio tune based on your personal bike setup, and to get everything right based on the environment where you live where elevation, humidity and temperature are very important to say a few.

The first thing you need to install is a tool to work with, to see how your Air Fuel Ratio is at the moment you start with the tune, and to see where you need to adjust.
This tool is called a wideband O2 gauge which you can connect directly on your Yuminashi IAT enabled standalone ECU.

We can recommend the Innovate MTX-L, and once you have this one installed and connected with our standalone ECU, you will be able to datalog and see over the entire field on your screen which your actual Air Fuel Ratio is over the entire power band and throttle position.
If you would use the stock 1volt narrowband O2 sensor, then this would be ballpark, which I presume this isn't the idea because you won't be buying a standalone ECU unit otherwise to get your tune right.

You are correct if you say that our maps don't work for your bike and this is because of the simple reason that we don't have a full Akropovic exhaust installed with a Chimera cold air intake, and that we are not living in your neighborhood to get the tune right based on your altitude, humidity and temperature.

What we did on the Yuminashi standalone ECU to make it possible for you to run your perfect tune day in day out, is connecting and activated the Intake Air Temperature sensor with the ECU, something which is totally impossible with a API standalone ECU.

The nice thing from this feature is that it allows you to enter a value based on the temperature, and that your entire map is back on track.

Again, the tune you need to do by yourself, we provide a base tune on the standalone ECU which allows you to start and you need to take it and adjust it from there based on your personal bike set up and environment.

If we can give you an advise, then this will be to order our new High Performance Ignition coil because we have found out after 3 years, I know, it's a long time, that the stock ignition coil is totally useless to tune your bike!
Our High Performance Ignition coil you can find over here: HIGH PERFORMANCE IGNITION COIL & WIRE KIT (HONDA MSX/GROM125)

I don't know if your kit came with the NGK10EK spark plug because, at this moment this spark plug comes with all kits we sell for the simple reason that you get a cooler running engine with it and less prone for detonation, engine knock.

The reason why it took us 3 years to find out about the ignition coil is because we saw high performance ignition coils as snake oil, until we finally started to experiment with different voltages and we saw results right away, no engine knock what so ever and torque right away which allowed us to drop a few teeth on the rear sprocket without any issue!...

I hope this information is useful for you Koho12, and thank you again for buying the Yuminashi products.

If something isn't correct, then please contact our customer service at [email protected] or have a live chat directly on our website which is available from 9AM until 6PM Bangkok time, 6 days a week, we are closed at Sunday.

Greetings,

Reggy Bodden
Executive Manager
Masato Co., Ltd.
 
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