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Modding forks today

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35K views 51 replies 22 participants last post by  burtonracing  
#1 ·
Took off fender caliper front wheel then removed forks. Caps ontop are easy to get off from forks. Pumped fork oil out. This stuff is thin! There was a hair over 200cc of fork oil in each. Waiting for shop to open to go pick up some 30 weight fork oil. Ill write a review on how it worked in a few hours!
 
#3 ·
WOW! What a difference this is the best mod ive done yet. Handles 100 times better. Total cost 11 dollars and 1 hour of my time. This is a MUST do mod for any grom owner! No more soft forks! They are comparable to the forks tension of my gsxr 1000. Do it now u wont be sorry. I used 200 ccs of belray 30 weight forkoil in each fork.this is the way it shouldve been from the factory. Stock fluid is very thin
 
#6 ·
changing oil helps damping, but will not do anything for bottoming (which they do) neither will preload (still same spring rate...)
you need springs for your weight as well.
then you'll discover how bad the stock shock is
 
#12 ·
1 remove 2 bolts that hold on caliper and 1 nut that secures brakeline to fender, remove caliper

2 remove 4 allen heads and 2 nuts from fender and remove fender

3 remove front wheel by loosening and sliding axle out. Dont lose the spacers one on each side of hub. They are identical

4 loosen both triple clamps and slide forks out

5 i wrapped a towel around both forks and put them in my vise then turned the large nut counterclockwise

6 once the nut is loose start pumping the fluid out until you get no more drops(takes awhile)

7 get youself whatever weight fluid u want and add 200 cc to each fork(i used 30 wt bel ray fork oil). Best way to do it is add the 200cc in thirds. What i mean is add a third of the 200cc then put cap back on snug and pump the fork . Do this until you have your 200ccs

8 tighten the top cap back on fork and reassemble!
 
#19 ·
or use an impact gun.
or what i will usually do, is loosen them before pulling them out of the triples (the trips act like a vise and hold the tube from turning)
 
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#23 ·
I'd like to add, first thing you should do I'd loosen the top triple clamp bolts then loosen the fork cap one turn with the lower triple clamps still tight. Then you can take the cap off with out clamping in a vice.

Do the opposite when installing do not loosen or tighten the cap with the upper clamp bolts tight it can mess up the threads or make you think it is tight when it is really not.

My stock oil did not look much thiner than the 20wt belray I put in.

Also pumping the fork with out the cap when refilling does not seem to get the air out you need to install it to bleed the air out just like forks earls posted.
 
#25 ·
It increases the damping is all. Thicker fluid moves slower through the valves. Revalving would have the same effect but allows a broader range of tunability. It will still bottom out just will take a much larger hit and wont soak them up as much. This is the cheap fix I was hoping someone would Try. Adding a schrader to the top but would really be cool too but what can these seals handle?
 
#28 ·
I weigh 190-195 with all of my gear on and vlogging stuff. At my weight I opted to evenly mix 15 and 20 weight for an effective 17.5 weight. Mine still bottoms but it's significantly improved. If I had it to do over again I would pick 20 weight. You are only about 10lbs lighter than me so I'm assuming your riding weight is close to mine (depends on your gear). My recommendation is 20 weight.